![]() Don't use common names or default names such as linksys, netgear, dlink, wireless or 2wire. Use a name that’s unique to your network.If your router is providing a Wi-Fi 6E network that isn’t using the same name for all bands, Apple devices that support Wi-Fi 6E will identify the network as having limited compatibility. Make sure all routers on your network use the same name for every band they support. If you give your 2.4 GHz, 5 GHz or 6 GHz bands different names, devices may not connect reliably to your network, to all routers on your network or to all available bands of your routers.It's also the name that nearby users will see on their device's list of available networks. The Wi-Fi network name, or SSID (service set identifier), is the name your network uses to advertise its presence to other devices. If you will excuse me, I have lots of Alyx 3D por.Set to a single, unique name (case-sensitive) for all bands You plug it in, do some janky installation, and then it just works. But I don't wanna deal with it, and I just want something that works. I know you guys will say I can just fix my wifi router and get the same result or whatever. ![]() (BTW, I have a 3090, soon to be outclassed, I know, but I still love it) I HATED the blurriness that I see in the distance in games like Alyx all that is cleaned up, the image is much cleaner. It plays exactly how it plays when I play tethered to the computer.Īnd the best part is, there is no more blurry artifact in the distance anymore. Crank all the SLR videos to the highest bitrate, no problem. I would try 75 hz, or 90 hz, to please the Oculus Gods with my paltry cr*p wi-fi offeringīut with D-link, I can crank it up to 120 hz, no sweat. So, before D-link, whenever I play games, I can NEVER do 120 hz the game would freak out, the resolution would drop like crazy, everything becomes blurry. Always mocking my connection.įinally, for the first time in my life, after the D-link actually started working, it simply said "Meet requirement". Unless you created that password as I described above, you haven't installed your D-link yet.īut once everything is done and ready, whoo-boy, let me tell you.įor months and months, whenever I connect my headset to my computer, it always mock me, Wifi "Meet SOME requirement". And again, the connection process is haphazard, I don't really understand why and how it doesn't detect the D-link sometimes. Only when I realized that the D-link didn't even connect to my headset did I start fiddling it around and getting it and connected. This is VERY important, because when I first tried out the D-link, and connected to my computer, my headset resolution still sucked, and I was disappointed. Then and only then has your headset truly connected to your D-link and not your wi-fi. You will have to create a new unique password for the D-link and also have to click on a screen on your computer to verify to connect your headset to the D-link instead of your wi-fi. ![]() However, after a couple of plugging in and out the D-link into my computer, the oculus desktop program will finally start a connection/installation process that is very similar to how you first linked your wifi to your headset. It has a very flimsy instruction page that doesn't really tell you anything. So my D-Link Air Bridge was literally just delivered half an hour ago.
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